New Zealand Mountains

I am lucky enough to live in the foothills of the mighty Tararua mountain range in the southern part of the North Island in New Zealand. This mountain range is neither as high as the Rockies or Himalayas, nor as spectacular as our Kiwi South Island Southern Alps. It’s snow capped for only a small part of the year, and is generally overlooked by most trampers outside of the region. (Trampers are Kiwispeak for hikers, ramblers, bushwalkers or whatever you call them in your neck of the woods). In fact one of NZ’s most famous mountaineers described the range as “grey lumpy porridge.”

But for a boy from the East End of London waking up every morning with green hills on three sides of the house is something really special. And for that same boy to be able to walk into the mountains is even better. That the tourists stay away makes things just about perfect. Solitude is what the mountains are all about.

Tararua is a Maori word. As happens with many Maori words there are different translations given. It could be two peaks, two spines or two side walls. My favourite explanation of the name comes from the time before European settlement when the Tararuas were a place where warring tribes were driven to escape the cannibalism or slavery of the conquerors. One chief was forced to make the long hard trek over the hills in search of refuge with relatives. On the way he saw the two main peaks which somehow reminded him of the genitalia of his wife. She must have been some woman! This story was told to me when I groaned, while tramping in sight of the peaks, that it was a [unflattering word for lady bits] of a climb.

The main reason that the Tararuas are ignored by many who come to New Zealand is the unpredictable weather. No, that’s not entirely true. You can predict that the weather will change and will probably be wet, cloudy and windy most of the time. When the great southerly winds roar in from the Southern Ocean the Tararuas take the brunt of their force. I’ve heard it said that there are only 60 clear days a year on the tops of the Tararuas. I haven’t seen many of them.

To go with the weather there are the steep hills. These two things combine to make river and creek crossing interesting. There is little topsoil on the ridges to soak up the rain so it pours straight into the waterways. I have seen the Otaki river change from little more than a foot deep stream to a raging torrent four or five metres deep in little over an hour. The footbridge over the Otaki had stood for 46 years before the floods of 2005 wiped it out. Just to make sure that people were paying attention.

The rivers are probably the most dangerous thing in the mountains. Here in NZ we don’t have large predators of any kind. If you are really unlucky you might get charged by a wild pig. But no bears, lions or snakes. But don’t underestimate the land itself. Between 1900 and 2003 55 people lost their lives in the Tararuas. And most of them would have been caught in the rivers.

Personally I take the route of prudence. I always carry enough food for a few extra days and a tarpaulin. If I have to sit by the side of a creek until it goes down enough for me to cross that’s ok. After all, I go into the mountains to experience the wild places. I wouldn’t enjoy it as much if it was tame.

That’s the best thing about the Tararuas. Being away from all the little things that we don’t really need. Cell phones, computers, bills, wife (oops! Sorry love, couldn’t resist it). Noticing the things that we do need. Fresh air. Green slopes. Dense bush. Exercise. Sharing it with a good woman. (See I told you I was sorry).

The steep and undulating landscape means that the Tararua joke ‘it’s uphill in both directions’ often seems true. When the cloud is in place this up and down in a grey soup is a little less than fun. But when there’s a break in the clouds and you can see from Taranaki to the Kaikouras with Kapiti Island thrown in like an appetiser for all that’s best on this planet, you know you’re in the Godzone. It’s a bit better than peering down Commercial Road between the petrol fumes.

So I’m itching to get back into the Tararuas. I think I’ll go tomorrow. Wanna come? Bring a raincoat.

References:

http://www.nzgeographic.co.nz/articles.php?ID=79

http://folksong.org.nz/tramp/index.html

http://www.tararua-race.org.nz/general_info.htm

http://www.newzealand.com/travel/International

© Paul Callaghan 2009